Scopello is the quintessential romantic sleepy Italian town. Think cobblestone streets, charming villas, flowers and dozing dogs, all around a central baglio and fountain. The town is small--three streets--and is perched atop a cliff overlooking a gorgeous stretch of coastline. It's perfect for couples or travelers seeking a lovely respite from the noisy chaos of life. Several films have been shot in Scopello, including Ocean's 12.What makes Scopello worthy of a
trip is spending a day at the beautiful little swimming cove below. Nestled between two rocky outcrops is a serene cove with clear, calm blue waters. It's also the site of a former tonnara--tuna fishery--where visitors can sunbathe on the concrete slabs and explore the grounds. It's gorgeous. Bring a picnic lunch, some bottled water, and your swim suit; this is a special place.
Sophie story:What a pretty place, and no mosquitos! Mom and Dad tried to get me to go in the ocean at Tuna Beach (the tonnara), but I didn't want to swim. It was fun chasing the tan and white kitty around the old rusty anchors. She was fast! Then another girl and I made "Mouse Soup" with the flavorful rocks and stones. We dumped it over the "cliff" into the water--splash! We picnicked under a fig tree. In town, the bakery was really really good, and there were lots of colors, textures and kitties everywhere.
Mom's story:
Swimming in the warm, salty cove was a heavenly. I floated, feeling every ounce of stress wash away with the gentle waves. There's something healing and special about the Mediterranean, and this cove was perfect. I swam to a large outcrop of rocks, looked back, and couldn't believe the beauty--the faded tonnara tucked between cliffs, the blue sky, the relaxed travelers taking in the sun. Sophie and Dan played on the landing. This swim was a refreshing moment for me to relax and just be.
Thinking like a kid:There's no beach at the tonnara, but lots to explore. A wonderful place to swim. Bring goggles or even a snorkle to check out the fish. A vending machine sells sodas and coffees, and the bathrooms have flush toilets, sinks and showers.
Parents of young children and toddlers: keep an eye open as the tonnara is not a place to let the little bear wander unsupervised. It's quiet, a place to swim, sun bathe, read or use your imagination to create games. But it is beautiful, and worthy of a visit.
Back in the village of Scopello, stop at the bakery for delicious iris (puffy bread with chocolate or pistachio filling), cannoli (fried crust with sweet ricotta filling) or melt-in-your-mouth pizza. The coffee drinkers will be satisfied with the cappuccino, and there are lots of gelato flavors.
We lunched at
La Terasse, which had good seafood and a terrific view...but all that was lost on us as Sophie decided that she needed to play peek-a-boo behind the vacant tables and organize some wayward stones on the terrace (not a good choice for toddlers). There are good restaurants in the baglio (farmhouse-fortress), and the large central courtyard is perfect for children to run around. In the summer, check out the open-air concerts.More info: http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/sicily/scopello.html
